As you can see I’m not terribly worried about doing challenges early (although cannot start them before they are announced) or late. I simply want them all done so as to keep my creative juices flowing and learn some new skills. I’m also horribly late on blogging about some of them because I have been very busy.
|So close to being done. I eventually spaced out the hearts on the sash more.|
This dress was created to be part of the Dickens Fair Alice in Wonderland cast. As you can see it is a Queen of Hearts dress. I worked hard to combine a sense of puled from the attic trunks and freshly put together.
The bodice is actually an Elizabethan bodice from a costume I bought from friend. The ruffle and the sleeves are from the skirt fabric of the same dress. The black cotton velvet skirt and oversleeves are part fabric purchased from a friends de-stash. The gold fringe was originally left over from the bustle dress (Oh good lord, I haven’t shown you all photos of THAT either…) but I was lucky to be able to source more since I would be needing it.
Long story shortened:
|Lots of pins were used…|
I started by dying 1/2 inch twill tape black and cutting out and hemming the knife pleated ruffle for the hem of the skirt. I originally calculated that I would use 3 panels of the black velvet and ended up having to add another panel. This meant that the red ruffle was 522 inches long and I made it 8 inches deep. I feretted the hem 18th Century style so the black twill would peak out at the bottom. Then I pleated the ruffle onto one inch twill tape so it would be removable if necessary.
I used the same treatment for the Black velvet skirt, except that I used white one inch twill to ferret the hem there it was supposed to give a nice pop at the transition – but it wasn’t as dramatic as I had hoped. The skirt is cartridged pleated into a grosgrain waistband (which I may replace).
I added a peplum to the bodice to make it more Victorian looking and add two sets of sleeves and poof! The sash was a trial because I wanted to match/compliment the fringe that I had already added to the dress so I ended up using a brushed twill and the wrong side of gold lamé to make the sash. I added more fringe to the ends of the sash and stiched it together in such a way that I have one wee little pocket to hold my gate pass and a couple of bills since I don’t carry a bag (what queen does?) and voilà! A fancy Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts!
The Challenge: Literature & Masquerade
Fabric: cotton Velvet (black and red), red silk taffeta, and white silk, brushed twill and some lamé
Pattern: none… o.O, I drafted everything free hand or used a toile I had on hand…
Year: 1850-1860 Fancy Dress
Notions: LOTS of thread, hooks & eyes, twill tape, dye,grosgrain ribbon, three tone Italian tassel fringe… and a lot of patience
How historically accurate is it? I think its pretty good. The fabrics are correct (except maybe the lamé – which could probably substitute for cloth of gold – but since I’m using the wrong side it makes no never-mind except that it wiggles when you sew… 😦)
Hours to complete:I don’t think I want to add it up. I’ve been working at it since early October (evenings and weekends and put the finishing touches on by the second weekend of Fair. I’d say a good starting estimate is 2-3 40 hour weeks (lots and lots of hand sewing). I’ve a couple of things left to tweak, but it is wearable and beautiful.
First worn: Dickens Fair November 2013
Total cost: somewhere between $400 and $500 for materials, labor? 80 to 120 hours – so a final cost is $1,200 to $2,900 depending on the hourly rate at which I pay myself (mentally that is and NOT including accessories)…. o.O
*** I PROMISE to add photos of me IN the dress and a post about the Bustle Gown is forthcoming… Just look for me on Facebook if you don’t want to be patient.
Well, there hasn’t bee a lot of it… my arthritis is kicking in horribly… nevertheless, I was able to finish the ruffs for Punch and Judy.
Judy only requires a mob cap with a red ribbon, a ruff, a pinafore apron, and a baby. So I just need to make up a baby and find a ribbon.
Punch will be more difficult, but I’m working on it slowly. I’ve gathered the materials and just need to figure out sizing…. Does anyone’s little boy want to play Punch?
QoH – I’ve cut out the skirt of the bodice and patterned the oversleeves. I need to mock up the under-sleeves to make sure they fit the armscye.
|The ruff – really a ruffle mostly handstitched and ties on so it is adjustable.|
…because I’m working on some gifts. The HSF #23 isn’t until November 18th but it put me in mind that I wanted to make most of my gifts for this Holiday season. Most of what I’m working on won’t qualify due to timing, but I have time now while I wait on fabric to arrive…
Upcoming, expect to see winter hats and pelisses for the GBACG Tall Ships Adventure in October and a new Queen of Hearts dress for the HSF Masquerade Challenge and for Dickens (If the costume gods and my Director approve it). Also, I recently realized that I don’t have a period ball gown; so I will be making a regency ball gown out of some green satin-ish fabric. Also, if the fabric gods are kind I may have enough of the black velvet left over from the QoH dress to make a regency mourning dress…(insert squees here)
I ordered the Regency boots (called the Hartfield) from the American Duchess. This will be my third pair of shoes from her and I can’t say enough good things about them. I am a 6.5 but buy a half to a full size up so I can use my inserts and wear socks (my silk stockings work fine at only a half size up, so I’m trying a full size up to see if the thicker knitted cotton stockings will do).
I’ve been finishing up some projects and have decided that the pink and brown plaid dress (Victorian) will need to become a ball gown as I have both a work dress and a wrapper now…
So that’s about it! I’m going to try out Trystan’s Accessories Challenge. It’s only once a month (HA!) so it should be manageable… 🙂
Well, I’m 4 handmade gifts down and several more to go. So off I go “To the Sewing Room!”
We don’t want to discuss how late I am with this one (ahem, MONTHS). Although in reality I’ve done loads of embellishments since then, but this little project only fits this HSF challenge. I originally made the reticule a couple of years ago when I first made my blue Dickens work dress. This is the same fabric. For this project I simply added an applique that I found in my grandmother’s stash. This will be my new everyday reticule for Regency… since most of those dresses are green or red this won’t match so it will be perfect.
The Challenge: Embellish
Year: Regency Era
Notions:an applique from the stash
How historically accurate is it? weeelll, it isn’t embroidered per se but it LOOKS like whitework – right?
Hours to complete:less than one (once I found and cleaned everything.
First worn: For Costume College
Total cost: nada
|Cartridge pleated skirt|
|Screen Capture – Anne Hathaway – Becoming Jane (2007)|
Pattern: hand drafted (on the fabric)
Year: roughly 1795
Notions: hook and bar, thread
How historically accurate is it? Its based on a movie costume – I’ve not seen extant examples that are similar, but a its a summer day dress it wouldn’t have lasted long anyway. Those were probably turned into quilts and rags when worn out. Certainly not kept as treasures.
Hours to complete: about a week of hand sewing in the evenings (about 4 hours a day)
First worn: For the photos – but I’m taking it to costume college. It feels comfortable enough to wear in class and not too distracting.
Total cost: $0 (Woo-hoo!)
Also known as The UnEnding List of Things to Do, But Make Me Happy So They Are Worth It.
So I took some time to sit down and write out all my projects. I have two lists. One if for myself and another is for Dickens. My list includes projects for me, gifts and projects for Victoria and Meghan (They mostly need prodding to work on their projects but still its use of my machine.) The projects for Charlie are lower priority, mostly because the are things for him to wear with Victoria…
This list does not include other sewing related tasks such as
Historical Sew Fortnightly (but I think some will apply!)
Attending Costume College
Helping Meghan Move
Moving Victoria’s Room
Re-Instating my Sewing Room
Some items have deadlines (Dickens related things)- others do not (ie Kana has been a to-do for a couple of years now)
- Corded Petticoats (3? – one for each of the girls)
- Queen of Hearts (Two parts – repair and make another)
- Alice Cape – blue with white stripes (note to self – purchase 1′ white grosgrain – ~20-30 yards)
- Alice muff – white rabbit fur of course
- Sash for green stripe regency dress
- overdress (regency)
- Pink Plaid
- Green Kirtle
- Chemise -Regency long sleeve
- 30’s Dress (I will commission this one, but I have fabric..)
- 50’s Dress
- Florentine (not yet finished, but technically wearable)
- Quilted Petticoat
- Round Gown
- Pantalettes (Alice, QoH, and a spare one or two)
- Pirate shirt (Victoria*)
- Blue Kirtle (Victoria)
- Breeches (Charlie)
- Coat (Charlie) – Actually he should have a couple Victorian, Revolutionary, and Regency
- Kana (Victoria)
- Belle Steampunk (Victoria*)
- Tricorns (cuz pirates amirite?)
- Blue Dress (Meghan*)
- Pantalettes (Meghan*)
- dino corset (Meghan – tudor style*)
- rapunzel corset (Meghan – 18th century style*)
- steampunk corset (Meghan – underbust*)
During a bazaar earlier this year I managed to pick up two old hoop skirts for $20. So after some investigation I began to take apart this one. While the skirt is nice as you can see it just doesn’t fit my more Rubenesque figure. Also, the other hoops were actually a smaller circumference…
As inspiration, I used these instructions from the Dreamstress… I also used some photos of cage crinolines… and the circumference of the TV141. When I finished my cage, I threw the petticoat over it and noticed that I need to shorten it about an inch to be sure it stays under my petticoat – or I can “bag” the two bottom hoops. Not quite sure which I will choose, but I’m happy.
So while I had a hard time finding info on the progression of the hoop sizes (without purchasing a pattern that is). I decided that 10 inches would work for me since I only had four hoops. I also worked from the bottom up. Dicken’s Fair has a requirement that hoops not be more than 110″. So that’s where I started.
|Keep in mind that my corset cinches me down 6 inches easy.|
Also, the notes from the TV pattern note that that particular hoop skirt is 36″ in length, so that is how long I made my straps.
I made the waistband large enough to fit me when I’m not corseted… but its drawstring, so will cinch down to the 38″ I corset to.
So the long and the short of making it.
The skirt is actually 7 panels (gored) using the skirt pattern from Butterick 6196. The regular pattern only uses 5 panels, but I added two when I bustled the skirt a few years ago. I re-hemmed it so that it sits a few inches off the floor. I just pleated the into a waist band and added a placket. I made the skirt large enough to wear with or without a corset.
The bodice is made using the lining pattern from TV456. I used the upper sleeve pattern to make a pattern for the sleeve. I did the math for the cuff as I wanted to be able to slip my hand through the cuff and not have to fasten it.
Hand crocheted from about 5 skeins of gray lambswool blend. Its big enough and basic enough to be used for several centuries of costumes.
That would be the white blouse part in the close-up. I went shopping at the thrift store for a blouse that closed around me neck and had pretty embroidery. It cost about $4 at the thrift shop.
The Bonnet needs to be embellished but I’m very excited!