One of the things Victoria needed to complete her Alice costume properly was a hooped petticoat. Last year we were able to get by with a square dance petticoat with a muslin petticoat over it. It worked for shape but Victoria had a tendency to get hot. One of the things I wanted to do was make her a hooped petticoat. Now unfortunately for costume folks, girls hooped petticoats are seldom sold and if they are they are quite expensive. Muslin isn’t expensive at all and the hoop wire was about $30 with shipping and I used 1/2 inch bias for the channels. If you think this is a little much for a little girls dress, I’d like to remind you that girls dresses had the same circumference as the adult dresses. The Alice costume is 120 inches. There are four bones measureing 55, 75, 86 and 90. We really just played with the sizes a bit until we got the silhouette we wanted. The skirt is just under 18 inches long and has a drawstring waist.
During a bazaar earlier this year I managed to pick up two old hoop skirts for $20. So after some investigation I began to take apart this one. While the skirt is nice as you can see it just doesn’t fit my more Rubenesque figure. Also, the other hoops were actually a smaller circumference…
As inspiration, I used these instructions from the Dreamstress… I also used some photos of cage crinolines… and the circumference of the TV141. When I finished my cage, I threw the petticoat over it and noticed that I need to shorten it about an inch to be sure it stays under my petticoat – or I can “bag” the two bottom hoops. Not quite sure which I will choose, but I’m happy.
So while I had a hard time finding info on the progression of the hoop sizes (without purchasing a pattern that is). I decided that 10 inches would work for me since I only had four hoops. I also worked from the bottom up. Dicken’s Fair has a requirement that hoops not be more than 110″. So that’s where I started.
|Keep in mind that my corset cinches me down 6 inches easy.|
Also, the notes from the TV pattern note that that particular hoop skirt is 36″ in length, so that is how long I made my straps.
I made the waistband large enough to fit me when I’m not corseted… but its drawstring, so will cinch down to the 38″ I corset to.
So the long and the short of making it.
The skirt is actually 7 panels (gored) using the skirt pattern from Butterick 6196. The regular pattern only uses 5 panels, but I added two when I bustled the skirt a few years ago. I re-hemmed it so that it sits a few inches off the floor. I just pleated the into a waist band and added a placket. I made the skirt large enough to wear with or without a corset.
The bodice is made using the lining pattern from TV456. I used the upper sleeve pattern to make a pattern for the sleeve. I did the math for the cuff as I wanted to be able to slip my hand through the cuff and not have to fasten it.
Hand crocheted from about 5 skeins of gray lambswool blend. Its big enough and basic enough to be used for several centuries of costumes.
That would be the white blouse part in the close-up. I went shopping at the thrift store for a blouse that closed around me neck and had pretty embroidery. It cost about $4 at the thrift shop.
The Bonnet needs to be embellished but I’m very excited!
So since I want to go to (and work) Dicken’s Fair this year my main project is a Victorian outfit. Well, really two since I want a fancy party dress (for GBACG day) and a work (Upper Middle Class) outfit. As with everything in costuming, ’tis best to work from the inside out. For further disclosure at the age of 18 (or so) I spent 6 months to a year playing around doing Civil War re-enactments and made a complete outfit. (Yes I went camping in my corset. I’ll have to hunt up the photo(s) and post about it later.)
- Chemise – While I want to make a new one with the Indian cotton that I made V’s from, I’ve a perfectly acceptable substitute for now – an old nightgown made of lawn.
- Pantalettes or drawers – Yes, they will be split crotch. No, I haven’t a pattern for them yet… Do you have ANY idea of how difficult it is to go to the ladies room in hoops and a corset?
- Corset – project du jour
- Corded petticoat – project for tomorrow (or next week or really when I can get to it.)
- Hoop skirt or cage crinoline. – Sigh. My choices are:
- Make one myself – I haven’t done this in 20 years, but I know how. Without a pattern even. Really it’s more about do I want to… (The question becomes – Is it worth being able to say ‘I made everything I’m wearing except the shoes…’) Supplies (if I use a pattern) will run
- Pattern $10.50 (TV 142)
- Hoop wire $48
- Bone casing $24
- oh an some fabric <2 yards and 5 yards of grosgrain ribbon…
- plus shipping and time (I estimate it will take about one day to make.)
- Buy one. <$100 – the down side to this is that it’s hard to find hoops in natural fabrics…
- Over-petticoat – the last time it was all ruffled like Scarlet’s…
- the Fancy dress… (TV 456) – I already have a pretty brown plaid for it… and some cool olive green trim…squee!
- the Work dress – well I have a skirt (in blue), really I need to make a bodice to go with it. The skirt is one I use for many eras, re-working the waist as necessary to add fullness to the back or even it out.
Well, I’m off to the fabric store to pick up grommets for the above mentioned corset… Wish me luck!